Showing posts with label homemade. Show all posts
Showing posts with label homemade. Show all posts
Wednesday, March 18, 2015
Homemade Air Thermometer How to Make a Homemade Thermometer
The illustration shows the complete thermometer.
The water in the glass tube is caused to rise and fall by the expansion and contraction of the air in the tin box.
Air Thermometer
A paper-fastener box, about 1-1/4 in. deep and 2 in. in diameter will serve very well for the box A. Solder in the side of the box 1-in. piece of 1/4-in. brass tubing, B, and then solder on the cover, C, so that the only escape for the air is through the brass tube.
Secure a piece of 1/4-in. glass tubing - not shorter than 18 in.—and bend it as shown at D in the sketch.
Hold the part of the tube to be bent in the broad side of a gas jet, and in a minute or two the tube will bend with its own weight. Any angle can be given glass tubing in this way. Connect the glass tube to B with a short piece of rubber hose, E. If the hose is not a tight fit, bind with a short piece of fine copper wire. The standard, F, is made from a piece of No. 10 wire about 10 in. long. To this standard solder the supporting wire, G—No. 14 wire will do. On one side bend the wire around the tube B, and on the other around the glass tube, D.
The base, H, can be made of oak, stained and varnished. The bottom of the box, A, is covered with lampblack so as to readily absorb all heat that strikes the surface. The black should not be put on until just before you paint the supports, cover and rim of the box with gold or silver paint. Hold the bottom of the box to be blackened over a little burning cotton saturated with turpentine.
The scale on the glass can be etched with hydrofluoric acid, or made with a little black paint. The water can be put in with a medicine dropper. This instrument will measure the amount of heat given by a candle some 20 or 30 ft. away.
—Contributed by J. Thos. Rhamstine.
Excerpt from the book:
THE BOY MECHANIC
VOLUME I
700 THINGS FOR BOYS TO DO
WITH 800 ILLUSTRATIONS
1913, BY H. H. WINDSOR CHICAGO
POPULAR MECHANICS CO. PUBLISHERS
Read more »
The water in the glass tube is caused to rise and fall by the expansion and contraction of the air in the tin box.
Air Thermometer
A paper-fastener box, about 1-1/4 in. deep and 2 in. in diameter will serve very well for the box A. Solder in the side of the box 1-in. piece of 1/4-in. brass tubing, B, and then solder on the cover, C, so that the only escape for the air is through the brass tube.
Secure a piece of 1/4-in. glass tubing - not shorter than 18 in.—and bend it as shown at D in the sketch.
Hold the part of the tube to be bent in the broad side of a gas jet, and in a minute or two the tube will bend with its own weight. Any angle can be given glass tubing in this way. Connect the glass tube to B with a short piece of rubber hose, E. If the hose is not a tight fit, bind with a short piece of fine copper wire. The standard, F, is made from a piece of No. 10 wire about 10 in. long. To this standard solder the supporting wire, G—No. 14 wire will do. On one side bend the wire around the tube B, and on the other around the glass tube, D.
The base, H, can be made of oak, stained and varnished. The bottom of the box, A, is covered with lampblack so as to readily absorb all heat that strikes the surface. The black should not be put on until just before you paint the supports, cover and rim of the box with gold or silver paint. Hold the bottom of the box to be blackened over a little burning cotton saturated with turpentine.
The scale on the glass can be etched with hydrofluoric acid, or made with a little black paint. The water can be put in with a medicine dropper. This instrument will measure the amount of heat given by a candle some 20 or 30 ft. away.
—Contributed by J. Thos. Rhamstine.
Excerpt from the book:
THE BOY MECHANIC
VOLUME I
700 THINGS FOR BOYS TO DO
WITH 800 ILLUSTRATIONS
1913, BY H. H. WINDSOR CHICAGO
POPULAR MECHANICS CO. PUBLISHERS
Homemade Wooden Toys Four blade Windmill
The Four-blade Windmill shown in Fig. 6 has a hub 4 inches in diameter and 1 inch thick (Fig. 7).
Fig. 6.—A Four-blade Windmill.
Fig. 7.—Hub
Fig. 8.—How to Slot End of Shaft for Tail.
This should be cut out of hard wood. Draw two lines across one face, through the center, and at right angles to each other. Then carry these lines across the edge of the block, not at right angles to the sides, but at an angle of 45 degrees.
Saw along these lines to a depth of 1¼ inches. The ends of the windmill blades are to fit in these slots.
Cut the blades of equal size, 9 inches long, 5 inches wide on the wide edge, and 1½ inches wide on the narrow edge, and fasten them in the slots with nails.
With the blades in position, pivot the hub to the end of the windmill shaft, a stick 20 inches long (Fig. 6). The end opposite to that to which the hub is pivoted is whittled round, and slotted with a saw to receive a tail (Fig. 8). The tail may be of the same size as the blades, though it is shown shorter in the illustration.
Mount the Windmill upon a post, pivoting its shaft at the balancing center with a nail or screw. Bore a hole large enough so the shaft will turn freely upon the pivot, and the windmill will thus keep headed into the wind.
HOME-MADE TOYS FOR GIRLS AND BOYS
BOOKS BY A. NEELY HALL
LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD CO., BOSTON
Published, August, 1915
Read more »
Fig. 6.—A Four-blade Windmill.
Fig. 7.—Hub
Fig. 8.—How to Slot End of Shaft for Tail.
This should be cut out of hard wood. Draw two lines across one face, through the center, and at right angles to each other. Then carry these lines across the edge of the block, not at right angles to the sides, but at an angle of 45 degrees.
Saw along these lines to a depth of 1¼ inches. The ends of the windmill blades are to fit in these slots.
Cut the blades of equal size, 9 inches long, 5 inches wide on the wide edge, and 1½ inches wide on the narrow edge, and fasten them in the slots with nails.
With the blades in position, pivot the hub to the end of the windmill shaft, a stick 20 inches long (Fig. 6). The end opposite to that to which the hub is pivoted is whittled round, and slotted with a saw to receive a tail (Fig. 8). The tail may be of the same size as the blades, though it is shown shorter in the illustration.
Mount the Windmill upon a post, pivoting its shaft at the balancing center with a nail or screw. Bore a hole large enough so the shaft will turn freely upon the pivot, and the windmill will thus keep headed into the wind.
HOME-MADE TOYS FOR GIRLS AND BOYS
BOOKS BY A. NEELY HALL
LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD CO., BOSTON
Published, August, 1915
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